135 lines
6.3 KiB
Markdown
135 lines
6.3 KiB
Markdown
# The Dactyl-ManuForm Keyboard
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This is a fork of the [Dactyl](https://github.com/adereth/dactyl-keyboard), a parameterized, split-hand, concave, columnar, ergonomic keyboard.
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The main change is that the thumb cluster was adapted from the [ManuForm keyboard](https://github.com/jeffgran/ManuForm) ([geekhack](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46015.0)). The walls were changed to just drop to the floor. The keyboard is paramaterized to allow adjusting the following:
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* Rows: 4 - 6
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* Columns: 5 and up
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* Row curvature
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* Column curvature
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* Row tilt (tenting)
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* Column tilt
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* Column offsets
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* Height
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I built a 4x5 version (40% size) for myself. The default has a bit more tenting than the Dactyl. See the following model files for configurations that may be most common:
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* [40% size, (4x5)](https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard/blob/master/things/right-4x5.stl)
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* [60% size, (5x6)](https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard/blob/master/things/right-5x6.stl)
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## Assembly
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### Generating a Design
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**Setting up the Clojure environment**
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* [Install the Clojure runtime](https://clojure.org)
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* [Install the Leiningen project manager](http://leiningen.org/)
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* [Install OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org/)
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**Generating the design**
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* Run `lein generate`
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* This will regenerate the `things/*.scad` files
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* Use OpenSCAD to open a `.scad` file.
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* Make changes to design, repeat `load-file`, OpenSCAD will watch for changes and rerender.
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* When done, use OpenSCAD to export STL files
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**Tips**
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* Run `lein auto generate` instead of `lein generate` to speed up your workflow.
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* [Some other ways to evaluate the clojure design file](http://stackoverflow.com/a/28213489)
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* [Example designing with clojure](http://adereth.github.io/blog/2014/04/09/3d-printing-with-clojure/)
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### Printing
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Pregenerated STL files are available in the [things/](things/) directory.
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When a model is generated, it also generates a `.scad` model for a bottom plate.
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This can be exported to a DXF file in OpenSCAD.
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The [things/](things/) directory also has DXF files for the bottom plate.
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When laser cut, some of the inside cuts will need to be removed.
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This model can be tricky to print.
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It's wide, so I've had problems with PLA on a Makerbot with edges warping.
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This can cause the printer to think its head is jammed.
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Even if it successfully prints, warping can cause problems.
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On one print, the RJ-9 holder was squished, so I had to cut down my connector to fit.
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If printed at Shapeways or other professional shops, I would not expect such problems.
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### Thingiverse
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[The 4x5 STL left/right pair](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349390) from the [things/](things/) directory is in the thingiverse for public printing
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### Wiring
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Here are materials I used for wiring.
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* Two Arduino Pro Micros
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* [Heat-set inserts](https://www.mcmaster.com/#94180a331/=16yfrx1)
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* [M3 wafer-head screws, 5mm](http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_185&products_id=455)
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* [Copper tape](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KB86BU)
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* [#32 magnet wire](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LV909HI)
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* [#30 wire](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFECWO)
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* [3-mm cast acrylic](http://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic/=144mfom)
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* [Veroboard stripboard](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CPVMMU)
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* [1N4148 diodes](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LQPY0Y0)
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* [Female RJ-9 connectors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HU7BVDU/)
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I wired one half using the traditional approach of using the legs of a diode to form the row connections.
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(I'm not great at soldering, so this was challenging for me.)
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For this side, I used magnet wire to wire columns. That worked okay.
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The magnet wire is small enough, it wants to move around, and it's hard to tell if you have a good connection.
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For another half, I used stripboard for the row connections.
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This allowed me to presolder all of the diodes.
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Then, I hot-glued this in place and finished the soldering of the other diode ends.
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I like this approach quite a lot.
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Connections for the diodes were much easier with one end fixed down.
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On this half, I also used copper tape to connect columns.
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This worked a bit better than the magnet wire for me.
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For a future version, I may try just bare tinned copper wire for columns (something like #20).
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With the stripboard, it's pretty easy keeping row and column connections separate.
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Note that a telephone handset cable has leads that are reversed, so take this into account when connecting these leads to the controller.
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The 3D printed part is the main keyboard.
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You can attach a bottom plate with screws.
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The case has holes for heat-set inserts designed to hold 3- to 6-mm long M3 screws.
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Then, I used wafer-head screws to connect a bottom plate.
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If wires aren't dangling, a bottom plate may not be needed.
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You need something on the bottom to keep the keyboard from sliding around.
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Without a plate, you could use a rubber pad, or you could dip the bottom of the keyboard in PlastiDip.
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For more photos of the first complete wiring of v0.4, see [Imgur](http://imgur.com/a/v9eIO).
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This is how the rows/columns wire to the keys and the ProMicro
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#### Alternative row-driven wiring diagram for ProMicro:
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NOTE: you also make sure the firmware is set up correctly (ex: change row pins with col pins)
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### Firmware
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Firmware goes hand in hand with how you wire the circuit.
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I adapted the QMK firmware [here](https://github.com/tshort/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/dactyl-manuform).
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This allows each side to work separately or together.
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This site also shows connections for the Arduino Pro Micro controllers.
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## License
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Copyright © 2015-2017 Matthew Adereth and Tom Short
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The source code for generating the models (everything excluding the [things/](things/) and [resources/](resources/) directories is distributed under the [GNU AFFERO GENERAL PUBLIC LICENSE Version 3](LICENSE). The generated models and PCB designs are distributed under the [Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike License Version 3.0](LICENSE-models).
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