Further upgrades on Route 2, diagrams added

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BubblesToTheLimit 2016-09-11 17:20:14 +02:00
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# Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
![](workbench.jpg)
For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know that's not great (it's better than nothing!)
## Making the PCB
Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer
method to etch the Pyralux sheets as you would a usual PCB
> NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out, voilà Toner based copies!
[Here's a handy toner transfer guide ... ](http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/)
Print these PCB designs out...
Left hand:
![](left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png)
Right hand:
![](right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png)
When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into
pieces... See the images below.
## This is Madness...
The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand:
![](madness.jpg)
Solder the MCP like so:
![](left-hand-mcp-1.jpg)
![](left-hand-mcp-2.jpg)
Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so:
![](teensy-1.jpg)
Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small diagram and notes)
![](teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg)
Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so:
![](right-hand-pcb-1.jpg)
Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the Pyralux:
![](right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg)
Here the left hand:
![](hotglue-left-hand.jpg)
That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!)

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* Preparation and Cost
Get all the parts / raw material
Get all the parts / raw material:
- For the 3D printing there are two options:
1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
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*** Step 1: Creating the rows
Using the copper wire you solder each row together, notice how the thumb-part gets its own
row. If you take a close look you can see how I did do a messy job soldering, I had to redo
some of the parts because they weren't soldered properly. Do this for both sides. Which ones of
the pins you chose for the row doesnt matter, but for it to look clean you should decide for
either one of them
some of the parts because they weren't soldered properly. Do this for both sides. Which ones
of the two available pins of each switch you chose for the row doesnt matter, but for it to
look clean you should decide for either one of them.
[[file:wiring_create_rows.jpg]]
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black part towards the switch, it is important that you follow that pattern for all of the
switches. The end where that color-mark is denotes the direction of the diode. The way these
diodes are directed, we have to have a firmware that "drives the rows", which means the
electricity can go from the column through the pressed switch through the row, but not the
other way around (TODO: insert diagram here to explain this further).
electricity can go from the row through the pressed key-switches to the columns, but not the
other way around.
These following sketches are supposed to make the two "driving"-options the ergodox-firmware
has more clear.
[[file:diode-diagram-drive-columns.png]]
[[file:diode-diagram-drive-rows.png]]
Luckily in our firmware "ergodox-firmware" we have the option that adapts to that. However if
you want to try and use the "tmk_keyboard" firmware which seems to be also interesting you
want to wire the diodes the other way. This way the "columns are driving". As a side note, for
some reason the tmk_keyboard firmware things of rows as columns and the other way around, so
some reason the tmk_keyboard firmware thinks of rows as columns and the other way around, so
if you look through the source code it will also see "drive rows", even though that means
"driving columns".
The tmk_keyboard firmware could also be used for this kind of wiring, but it would have to be
rewritten, maybe in a beautiful way, such that it can also "drive rows". However I didnt go
ahead and perfomed that rewriting, so I had to stick with the "ergodox-firmware". In retrospect
ahead and perfom that rewriting, so I had to stick with the "ergodox-firmware". In retrospect
I'd wish I had wired the diodes the other way around.
The first picture doesnt show how the 6 thumb-keys are actually individually connected to the 6
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[[file:wiring-create-columns-right.jpg]]
TODO: Insert diagram of how the thumb-keys are connected to the main clumns.
How Thumb-keys are wired again depends on the firmware, the following picture shows the wiring
of the thumb keys more clearly and also the part in the code that reflects this wiring
(ergodox-firmware/src/keyboard/dactyl/matrix.h).
[[file:thumb-key-wiring.jpg]]
*** Put the Teensy and the MCP in place
This next step is to wire the Teensy 2.0 and the MCP 23018 in place.
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[[file:circuit-diagram.png]]
[[file:rows-and-columns-connected-to-chips.jpg]]
Things to note here:
- The columns for the MCP go from 0 to 6, the columns for the Teensy go from 7 to D (counting
in hexadecimal) which makes great sence, since the MCP is left to the Teensy and we read from
left to right.
- When debugging this and using the ergodox-firmware, both sides have to be wired completely
and actually connected, dont expect the keyboard to work before that. The reason being is how
and actually with the TTRS connected, dont expect the keyboard to work before that. The reason being is how
the ergodox-firmware stops completely if either the Teensy or the MCP weren't initiated
properly.
- In the circuit-diagram the columns on the left side (MCP side) actually go from GPA5 to INTA
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gets used directly in the ergodox-firmware, so just connect those connections that make no
sense on first sight and either dont question it or find out why this is necessary by going
through the firmware in great detail.
[[file:rows-and-columns-connected-to-chips.jpg]]
How the TRRS jacks are wired for both sides:
[[file:trrs-jacks.jpg]]

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