makeup changes, replaced the 2 new pictures
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Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
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is a good rough estimate.
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After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section
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After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section.
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* Wiring
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It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm
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not going into advice on 3D printing here.
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1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
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2) Put the keycaps on the switches
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- Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short,
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that's why it doesnt look symmetrical
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[[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]]
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[[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg
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[[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]]
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Now going further on in the guide there are two options
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1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
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@ -86,12 +89,12 @@
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2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
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- [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
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2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
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this was great joy and pleasure.
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this was great pain and pleasure.
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- Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
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at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
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"ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
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- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the
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first guide there is a whole lot more of information.
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- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to
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option one there is a whole lot more of information.
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- [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]
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** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
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guide/application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg
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