makeup changes, replaced the 2 new pictures

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BubblesToTheLimit 2016-09-06 22:31:10 +02:00
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* Preparation and Cost
Get all the parts / raw material
- For the 3D printing there are two options:
1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
printer you have available.
2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
- Decide on the switches
- If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
- I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
- Decide on the key caps
- On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
left-over.
- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
- It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
- The main controller (right half)
- A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
- TTRS cable and jacks
- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
- MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
Get all the parts / raw material
- For the 3D printing there are two options:
1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
printer you have available.
2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
- Decide on the switches
- If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
- I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
- Decide on the key caps
- On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
left-over.
- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
- It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
- The main controller (right half)
- A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
- TTRS cable and jacks
- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
- MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
| item | cost |
|-----------------------------------+------|
| filament | 70 |
| switch-tester | 30 |
| key-caps | 70 |
| teensy 2.0 | 30 |
| switches | 60 |
| usb cable | 10 |
| IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
|-----------------------------------+------|
| overall cost | 300 |
#+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
| item | cost |
|-----------------------------------+------|
| filament | 70 |
| switch-tester | 30 |
| key-caps | 70 |
| teensy 2.0 | 30 |
| switches | 60 |
| usb cable | 10 |
| IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
|-----------------------------------+------|
| overall cost | 300 |
#+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
My choices / advantages:
- Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
- 76 Diodes for free
- Soldering wire and copper for free
- All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
- Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
My choices / advantages:
- Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
- 76 Diodes for free
- Soldering wire and copper for free
- All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
- Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
is a good rough estimate.
Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
is a good rough estimate.
After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section
After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section.
* Wiring
It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm
not going into advice on 3D printing here.
1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
2) Put the keycaps on the switches
- Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short,
that's why it doesnt look symmetrical
[[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]]
[[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg
[[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]]
Now going further on in the guide there are two options
1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
@ -86,12 +89,12 @@
2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
- [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
this was great joy and pleasure.
this was great pain and pleasure.
- Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
"ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the
first guide there is a whole lot more of information.
- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to
option one there is a whole lot more of information.
- [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]
** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide

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