From 5b07b7845916cbd9a95d90746b19ac68c784e42a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Leo Lou Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2018 09:19:40 +0900 Subject: [PATCH] Update docs for alias to generate files --- README.md | 62 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++---------------------------- 1 file changed, 31 insertions(+), 31 deletions(-) diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index 859154f..45b1b81 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -3,9 +3,9 @@ This is a fork of the [Dactyl](https://github.com/adereth/dactyl-keyboard), a pa ![Imgur](http://i.imgur.com/LdjEhrR.jpg) -The main change is that the thumb cluster was adapted from the [ManuForm keyboard](https://github.com/jeffgran/ManuForm) ([geekhack](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46015.0)). The walls were changed to just drop to the floor. The keyboard is paramaterized to allow adjusting the following: +The main change is that the thumb cluster was adapted from the [ManuForm keyboard](https://github.com/jeffgran/ManuForm) ([geekhack](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46015.0)). The walls were changed to just drop to the floor. The keyboard is paramaterized to allow adjusting the following: -* Rows: 4 - 6 +* Rows: 4 - 6 * Columns: 5 and up * Row curvature * Column curvature @@ -30,32 +30,32 @@ I built a 4x5 version (40% size) for myself. The default has a bit more tenting * [Install OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org/) **Generating the design** -* Run `lein repl` -* Load the file `(load-file "src/dactyl_keyboard/dactyl.clj")` +* Run `lein generate` * This will regenerate the `things/*.scad` files * Use OpenSCAD to open a `.scad` file. * Make changes to design, repeat `load-file`, OpenSCAD will watch for changes and rerender. * When done, use OpenSCAD to export STL files **Tips** +* Run `lein auto generate` instead of `lein generate` to speed up your workflow. * [Some other ways to evaluate the clojure design file](http://stackoverflow.com/a/28213489) * [Example designing with clojure](http://adereth.github.io/blog/2014/04/09/3d-printing-with-clojure/) ### Printing -Pregenerated STL files are available in the [things/](things/) directory. -When a model is generated, it also generates a `.scad` model for a bottom plate. +Pregenerated STL files are available in the [things/](things/) directory. +When a model is generated, it also generates a `.scad` model for a bottom plate. This can be exported to a DXF file in OpenSCAD. The [things/](things/) directory also has DXF files for the bottom plate. -When laser cut, some of the inside cuts will need to be removed. +When laser cut, some of the inside cuts will need to be removed. -This model can be tricky to print. -It's wide, so I've had problems with PLA on a Makerbot with edges warping. -This can cause the printer to think its head is jammed. -Even if it successfully prints, warping can cause problems. +This model can be tricky to print. +It's wide, so I've had problems with PLA on a Makerbot with edges warping. +This can cause the printer to think its head is jammed. +Even if it successfully prints, warping can cause problems. On one print, the RJ-9 holder was squished, so I had to cut down my connector to fit. -If printed at Shapeways or other professional shops, I would not expect such problems. +If printed at Shapeways or other professional shops, I would not expect such problems. ### Thingiverse @@ -76,33 +76,33 @@ Here are materials I used for wiring. * [1N4148 diodes](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LQPY0Y0) * [Female RJ-9 connectors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HU7BVDU/) -I wired one half using the traditional approach of using the legs of a diode to form the row connections. +I wired one half using the traditional approach of using the legs of a diode to form the row connections. (I'm not great at soldering, so this was challenging for me.) -For this side, I used magnet wire to wire columns. That worked okay. +For this side, I used magnet wire to wire columns. That worked okay. The magnet wire is small enough, it wants to move around, and it's hard to tell if you have a good connection. ![Imgur](http://i.imgur.com/7kPvSgg.jpg) -For another half, I used stripboard for the row connections. -This allowed me to presolder all of the diodes. -Then, I hot-glued this in place and finished the soldering of the other diode ends. -I like this approach quite a lot. -Connections for the diodes were much easier with one end fixed down. -On this half, I also used copper tape to connect columns. -This worked a bit better than the magnet wire for me. -For a future version, I may try just bare tinned copper wire for columns (something like #20). +For another half, I used stripboard for the row connections. +This allowed me to presolder all of the diodes. +Then, I hot-glued this in place and finished the soldering of the other diode ends. +I like this approach quite a lot. +Connections for the diodes were much easier with one end fixed down. +On this half, I also used copper tape to connect columns. +This worked a bit better than the magnet wire for me. +For a future version, I may try just bare tinned copper wire for columns (something like #20). With the stripboard, it's pretty easy keeping row and column connections separate. ![Imgur](http://i.imgur.com/JOm5ElP.jpg) Note that a telephone handset cable has leads that are reversed, so take this into account when connecting these leads to the controller. -The 3D printed part is the main keyboard. -You can attach a bottom plate with screws. -The case has holes for heat-set inserts designed to hold 3- to 6-mm long M3 screws. -Then, I used wafer-head screws to connect a bottom plate. -If wires aren't dangling, a bottom plate may not be needed. -You need something on the bottom to keep the keyboard from sliding around. +The 3D printed part is the main keyboard. +You can attach a bottom plate with screws. +The case has holes for heat-set inserts designed to hold 3- to 6-mm long M3 screws. +Then, I used wafer-head screws to connect a bottom plate. +If wires aren't dangling, a bottom plate may not be needed. +You need something on the bottom to keep the keyboard from sliding around. Without a plate, you could use a rubber pad, or you could dip the bottom of the keyboard in PlastiDip. For more photos of the first complete wiring of v0.4, see [Imgur](http://imgur.com/a/v9eIO). @@ -122,9 +122,9 @@ NOTE: you also make sure the firmware is set up correctly (ex: change row pins w ### Firmware -Firmware goes hand in hand with how you wire the circuit. -I adapted the QMK firmware [here](https://github.com/tshort/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/dactyl-manuform). -This allows each side to work separately or together. +Firmware goes hand in hand with how you wire the circuit. +I adapted the QMK firmware [here](https://github.com/tshort/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/dactyl-manuform). +This allows each side to work separately or together. This site also shows connections for the Arduino Pro Micro controllers. ## License